Home › Guides › Best place to drill

The Best Place on Your Property to Drill a Well

By the wheretodigwell.com Team · Reviewed by Prof. Milan Radulović, PhD (Hydrogeology), University of Montenegro · Updated July 2026

Choosing the spot for a well is two separate decisions wearing one coat. The first is hydrogeological: where will the well find the most water at the least depth? The second is sanitary and practical: where is that water safe and the well buildable? Skip either one and you pay for it – in dry metres drilled or in contaminated water.

Step 1: Where is the water best?

Groundwater conditions vary across even a small property, especially in fractured and karst rock where one spot can strike a water-bearing fracture zone and another, 50 m away, nearly dry rock (see aquifer types). In uniform sands and gravels the choice is more forgiving. General rules from hydrogeological practice: lower parts of the parcel have a shallower water table; the foot of a slope beats its crest; a band of lush vegetation or a nearby spring marks favourable conditions (real groundwater signs). Start by screening your parcel – corner by corner if it's large:

Step 2: Where is the water safe? Setback distances

A well pulls in water from its surroundings – including anything dissolved in it. Because a pumping well draws water toward itself from all directions (the cone of depression), contamination sources within its zone of influence become contamination sources in your glass. Typical minimum distances required by sanitary regulations (always verify local rules):

Distances alone aren't enough – direction matters more. Groundwater flows downhill along the sloping water table, so place the well up-gradient (uphill in most terrain) of septic systems, barns and roads. In highly permeable gravel and especially karst, where flow is fast and filtration minimal, use distances well above the minimums.

Step 3: Practicalities that decide the final metre

• Rig access – a drilling rig is a truck: it needs a route, working space and clearance from overhead lines. The perfect spot a rig can't reach is not a spot.
• Flooding – keep the wellhead above flood levels and grade the ground so surface water drains away from the casing.
• Power and pipe runs – every metre from well to house adds trench, pipe and cable.
• Neighbouring wells – overlapping cones of depression mean interference: two close wells partially rob each other (how drawdown works). Keep distance from active irrigation wells in particular.
• Permits – many jurisdictions require a well permit and prescribe exact setbacks; drillers usually know the local rulebook.

The order matters

Do steps in this order: hydrogeology → sanitary setbacks → practicality. People commonly do it backwards – picking the most convenient corner by the driveway and hoping – which is how properties end up with a 90-metre borehole beside a septic drainfield while a better aquifer sat under the far meadow. The data to do it right now takes minutes, not weeks: begin with the complete guide to choosing where to dig, then verify depth expectations in how deep is the water table.

Frequently asked questions

How far should a well be from a septic system?

Typically ≥15 m from the tank and ≥30 m from the drainfield – more in gravel or karst. Check local regulations, and stay up-gradient.

Does the exact spot matter on a small parcel?

For yield: little in uniform sand, a lot in fractured/karst rock. For safety: always – respect setbacks and flow direction.

Can a neighbour's well affect mine?

Yes – overlapping cones of depression lower both water levels. Keep practical distance from active wells.